Hidden Gems of the 'Mystic Corridor'
Anyone attracted to a good mystery and eye-catching splendor is destined for a memorable visit here in the Klamath-Siskiyou.
Home to the densest concentration of Wild and Scenic Rivers in the west, our blue-green sparkling waters are an important haven to salmon, as well as whitewater enthusiasts, fisherman and visitors seeking cool relief from the summer sun. And our dense and varied forests provide a different kind of respite through the year as people relax under the forest canopy, protected from both rain and sun.
The Klamath-Siskiyou mountains, which stretch from Redding, Calif. all the way up to Roseburg, Ore. and generally east from the coast to the Cascade Range, are also a compelling puzzle for scientists. Two of the Earth’s plates collide here and have created a jumbled, complex geology that gives rise to steep, rugged mountains with a unique diversity of plant species and habitats.
Hence the rugged, unique and varied wild places you find here. As you drive Hwy. 199 (Redwood Hwy.) from Crescent City to Grants Pass, you’ll enjoy the wetter habitat of old-growth redwood forests near the coast. As you move east you’ll meander along the Smith River gorge, noticing a more mixed forest, rugged cliffs and dramatic white water. By the time you’ve made it to Illinois Valley in O’Brien 20 miles later, you’re in a markedly dryer habitat with unique plants and rock formations found few other places in the world.
Veer off Hwy. 199 while you’re here visiting Illinois Valley and find yourself pleasantly surprised. Along with a visit to Rough and Ready Botanical Wayside (Hwy. 199, milepost 34), the Oregon Caves National Monument, the Out ‘N’ About TreeSort, or wine-tasting at our local wineries (go to the Illinois Valley Visitor Center in Cave Junction for more information), venture down Illinois River Road in Selma (north of Cave Junction approximately 8 miles on 199, turn left at the blinking yellow light by the gas station in Selma).
You’re well taken care of as you head down the road. Though you want to be careful on the road- it’s a two-laner and, well, the views of the river are fantastically distracting -- the U.S. Forest Service recently has invested in new restrooms, pavilions and parking areas. You’ll find gorgeous places to picnic and world-class swimming holes. Here are a couple of highlights:
Snailback Creek: At the 5.4-mile mark there is a parking area to the Lower Snailback trail that goes down to the Snailback rapids on Illinois River. This marked trail follows a Jeep track about a half-mile down to the river, a stunning section of the river with a picnic table, swimming hole and two separate beaches on the river. The rapid is downstream from the Snailback Creek outlet.
McCaleb Ranch: At the 16-mile marker turn left on FS 087. About a quarter-mile down the road you come to a swinging bridge. Enjoy the huge swimming hole called Divers Hole. Scuba divers bring their gear and explore this pool as it’s so large and deep, so we would recommend you bring your snorkel gear! A trail starts about 100 yards before you reach the bridge- it’s an old helicopter landing and the trail takes you after about a quarter-mile or so down to a beautiful waterfall.
Deer Creek Center (DCC), where the Siskiyou Field Institute (SFI) is located, is on the left about 1 ½ miles down before you get to the river itself. An 850-acre ranch frequented by Hollywood icon John Wayne, it shows off the grandeur of the area. Feel free to come give yourself a tour (check in at the ranch house) and enjoy lunch on the front porch of the 7,000-square-foot ranch house, or under the pavilion, where you can look out at the surrounding mountains, or walk down to Deer Creek, a main tributary of the Wild and Scenic Illinois River. Or phone ahead and find out what recreation and natural history programs SFI is offering and take full advantage of its guides and naturalists, as they teach about the region’s outdoor riches on outdoor explorations for people of all ages and learning styles.
Of course, if you’re a backcountry enthusiast, stop the car. You’re here. Illinois Valley is a jumping-off point for the Kalmiopsis Wilderness, Siskiyou Wilderness, Red Buttes Wilderness, Oregon Caves National Monument, as well as the above-mentioned Wild and Scenic Illinois River. Visit Illinois Valley’s Forest Service station or Visitor Center and off you go!
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